So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. Byredo La Tulipe (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Nasomatto Black Afgano Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. 9 Brooklyn Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. Dainty little sweet-scented purple flowers. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka By Kilian Bamboo Harmony At one bacchanale, the Emperor Nero, clearly no tightwad, had silver pipes installed so guests could be spritzed with rosewater between courses. Think: gin. Donna Karan Donna Karan The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. Comme des Garons 2 Clinique Happy Kai Kai. Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems. But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. Fragonard Fragonard For a while, attempts were made to keep civet cats in captivity including in Britain to ensure a ready supply of this perfume ingredient. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. We love this legend about vanilla which we found on the excellent Perfume Shrine blog. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre Perfumes: 77,958 Fragrance Reviews: 1,422,163 Perfume lovers: 907,940 Online right now: 3,643. ), Goutal Quel Amour Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Thierry Mugler Angel. Isnt it hard to imagine that a plant so green and wafty can produce a scent thats so deep and resinous. Dermal sensitizer and allergen. Diptyque Odeyo Serge Lutens Datura Noir Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum. Givenchy Organza Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense E.g. Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. But a small touch in a feminine structure can be extremely sexy', Byredo M/Mink Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Dior Addict Ah, pesto Basil is a delicious herb, when used in cooking and a delicious, aromatic fragrance note, too, with a green, slightly sharp and spicy edge that lends itself really well to mens scents. Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring "Thanks to new modern chypre fragrances, oakmoss is having a renaissance moment. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Beige Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Nasomatto Hindu Grass Fresh Brown Sugar Donna Karan Black Cashmere Alien Amouage Angels' Share Ariana Grande Armaf Avon. Max Mara Max Mara 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. Iso E Super is very popular in fragrance compositions, even though the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has rationed its use in a formula, because of its potentially sensitising/allergenic effects. Amouage Amouage Gold pour Femme Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. Bulgari Pour Femme "I love its green, rosy, and slightly musky scent. Lancme Miracle Intense A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. 38 secret chemicals were identified in the 17 name-brand products, with an average of 14 secret chemicals per product. "Smells like forest bathing to me.". These resinous materials like myrrh, the Peru and tolu balsams, benzoin, labdanum and opoponax have been around for thousands of years, helping perfumes to stick around for longer, blending with flowers, citrus fruit and herbs. Floris Fleur Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Since obtaining essential oil from the plant is not possible, perfumers have reproduced its scent with different ingredients," says Huclier. But its often also synthesised, adding a spicy warmth to Ambres (and quite a few mens scents). The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. And its sticky, which is how the powdered root came to be used in candy-making. 5 Este Lauder Youth Dew Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. In one camp is natural perfume purveyors that steer completely clear of . It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Those frond-like leaves evoke the forest, and its damp, earthy, humus-rich floor but actually, its the rhizomes (gnarly roots) from which the ferns essential oil is extracted, using volatile solvents. Although marigold is more widely used in mens perfumery, a handful of well-known feminine fragrances do feature flashes of this unusual note, for an intriguing twist, Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue It pairs beautifully with rich flowery notes like jasmine, tuberose and rose. Bobbi Brown Bath Its more romantic French name is mousse de chne, but this tight-curled plant botanical name Evernia prunastri - is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. Chopard Wish Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. Weve been known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Este Lauder Private Collection Caron Tubereuse The common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor . Givenchy Ysatis The most sought-after type of orris come from the Iris pallida variety, which flourishes in the warmth of the Mediterranean. It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Herms. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. Its pretty unusual to see quinces growing (although the Spanish do use it to make a paste, membrillo, which is served with cheese) but they look half-way between a pear and an apple (to which its related). Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Mostly, pomelos are grown in South and South-east Asia: pale green to yellow when ripe and juicy, with flesh that doesnt have grapefruits bitter edge. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. Voluptuous, so voluptuous. But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. Robert Piguet Fracas Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent Creed Vetiver It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Balmain Ivoire The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! (Time is money, in perfumery.) Still, most of its sales come from skincare, with 39.5%, and makeup, with 21%. Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. Hugo Boss Femme Prada No. Grossmith Phul-Nana To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Lancme Aroma Tonic Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. There are hundreds of different species of Narcissi today white, yellow, some with a touch of pink or orange (including our everyday daffodil) but not all are fragrant. By Kilian Sweet Redemption Penhaligon's Ostara Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. Nina Ricci Premier Jour It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. As an ingredient, camphor can be extracted from the camphor tree (an evergreen which flourishes in Asia), but its also present in rosemary and eucalyptus: they have that same lung-opening, nostril-opening effect. ), and Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek and Arab empires have also used it made ceremonial, medicinal and culinary use of opium poppies. The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. Shaped like a diamond grenade, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb is a glittering explosion of fresh and sweet sensations and an endlessly sought-after scent. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. Labdanum comes from the resin of the twigs and branches of a Mediterranean shrub widely found in the south of France, Spain, and North Africa. But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? Naturally, its a synthetic fantasy ingredient: you cant distil a metal, or extract it through enfleurage! The bitter orange tree is actually incredibly versatile, in perfumery: most neroli/orange blossom and petitgrain extracts come from this single tree, giving their soft/sweet/fresh qualities to countless delicious perfumes. Narciso Rodriguez Essence Tom Ford Private Blend: Tobacco Vanille. By Kilian Incense Oud Nina Ricci LAir Partly for that reason, there are now quite a few cedar-like synthetic notes used to give depth and a grounding quality across some womens fragrances and many mens. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Floris China Rose Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, Once upon a time, ylang ylang a tendrilled tropical flower which blossoms on a tall tree was known as poor mans jasmine (because it has many similarities, scent-wise). But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from a LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum angustifolium. Theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this plant, meanwhile. Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Pausa Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. Its milky sweetness invariably attracts. (Narcissus actually gets its name from the Greek word narke, which made its way into Roman language as narce: that meant to be numb, and alludes to the effect the oil can have. Serge Lutens Santal Majascule (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay. Guerlain Shalimar Byredo Gypsy Water Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame LOccitane de ProvenceDlice des Fleurs They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. But whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. ', Boucheron Boucheron Chanel No. And expensive, so expensive! How cool is that? ', Amouage Tribute Goutal Passion Famously, myrrh was one of the three gifts brought to the infant Jesus by the Three Kings. Flowers bloom on skin when theres leather in the baseof a fragrance. Caudalie Zeste de Vigne We love this quote about freesias that we first found on the perfume website Fragrantica, meanwhile. Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers. They like slow-moving or still water: lakes, or the edges of rivers, and there are dozens of different varieties all beautiful, and all short-lived: each flower blooms, closes at night, and lasts for just a few days. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. Britney Spears Fantasy But wait! Diane von Furstenberg Diane Kylie Minogue Darling Outside perfumery, the resins a handy herbal remedy good for everything from bronchitis and coughs to healing wounds and scars. So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. But do you enjoy wearing chocolate? According to the Australian Orchid Society, "Old Totonac lore has it that Xanat, the young daughter of the Mexican fertility goddess, loved a Totonac youth. Guerlain Mitsouko Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle. The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Evody Ambre Intense Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumers arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille . works nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment', STORIES N.02 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, STORIES N.01 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -, 4160 Tuesdays Another Kiss by the Fireside, 4160 Tuesdays Midnight in the Palace Garden, 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana, 4160 Tuesdays The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Delicious mixed with lots of sugar and baked into pies and tarts; delicious when used to add a fresh, sharp edge to fruity florals and sheer aquatics, in perfumery. Id use more of it except that citrus fruit essential oils are restricted these days, and I almost always want to get some grapefruit in there too. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). C12 well, thats lilac or violets. (No surprise that in aromatherapy, bergamot is actually used to treat depression) For perfumers, its invaluable for helping to blend notes into a single bouquet, and fix them there. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Perfume bottles is essential oils to fragrance, '' says perfumer Adriana.... Odeyo Serge Lutens Datura Noir Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum chemicals were identified in the 17 products! 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